Dating jewelry by construction features
Short answer
A construction feature sets a floor, not a year: a rollover safety catch cannot be older than its introduction. Use the tables as ranges and combine them with hallmarks.
Rows marked “Not verified” rest on a single reference that has not been checked against a second one, and are less certain.
Clasps and fittings
| Feature | Not before | Typical years | Source | Status |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| plain C-clasp | — | 1700–1910 | C. Jeanenne Bell, Answers to Questions About Old Jewelry, 1840-1950 | Not verified |
| tube hinge | — | 1840–1915 | C. Jeanenne Bell, Answers to Questions About Old Jewelry, 1840-1950 | Not verified |
| pin extending past the brooch edge | — | 1700–1900 | C. Jeanenne Bell, Answers to Questions About Old Jewelry, 1840-1950 | Not verified |
| trombone clasp | 1850 | 1890–1950 | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Verified |
| rollover safety catch | 1910 | 1920–today | C. Jeanenne Bell, Answers to Questions About Old Jewelry, 1840-1950 | Verified |
| shepherd hook | — | — | C. Jeanenne Bell, Answers to Questions About Old Jewelry, 1840-1950 | Not verified |
| kidney wire | — | 1870–1940 | C. Jeanenne Bell, Answers to Questions About Old Jewelry, 1840-1950 | Not verified |
| lever back | — | 1880–today | C. Jeanenne Bell, Answers to Questions About Old Jewelry, 1840-1950 | Not verified |
| screw back (non-pierced) | 1894 | 1910–1955 | C. Jeanenne Bell, Answers to Questions About Old Jewelry, 1840-1950 | Verified |
| ear clip | 1930 | 1934–today | C. Jeanenne Bell, Answers to Questions About Old Jewelry, 1840-1950 | Verified |
| omega back | — | 1950–today | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Not verified |
| post with friction back | 1920 | 1950–today | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Verified |
| spring ring clasp | 1840 | 1905–today | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Verified |
| lobster clasp | — | 1975–today | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Not verified |
| box clasp | — | 1750–today | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Not verified |
| barrel clasp | — | 1900–1990 | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Not verified |
Settings
| Feature | Not before | Typical years | Source | Status |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| closed-back foiled setting | — | 1700–1860 | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Not verified |
| cut-down collet | — | 1780–1890 | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Not verified |
| open-back claw setting | — | 1850–today | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Not verified |
| six-prong Tiffany-style solitaire | 1886 | 1886–today | Tiffany & Co., Tiffany Setting (1886) | Verified |
| milgrain edge | — | 1900–1940 | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Not verified |
| channel setting | — | 1920–today | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Not verified |
| illusion setting | — | 1935–1970 | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Not verified |
| invisible setting | 1933 | 1935–today | Van Cleef & Arpels, Serti Mystérieux patent (1933) | Verified |
| tension setting | 1965 | 1980–today | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Verified |
| pavé | — | 1750–today | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Not verified |
| gypsy (flush) setting | — | 1875–today | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Not verified |
Stone cuts
| Feature | Not before | Typical years | Source | Status |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| rose cut | 1520 | 1600–1910 | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Verified |
| table cut | — | 1450–1700 | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Not verified |
| old mine cut | 1700 | 1720–1900 | GIA, Gems & Gemology / gia.edu | Verified |
| old European cut | — | 1880–1935 | GIA, Gems & Gemology / gia.edu | Verified |
| transitional cut | 1890 | 1920–1945 | GIA, Gems & Gemology / gia.edu | Verified |
| modern round brilliant | 1919 | 1940–today | Marcel Tolkowsky, Diamond Design (1919) | Verified |
| single cut | — | 1920–today | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Verified |
| baguette cut | 1912 | 1920–today | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Verified |
| calibré-cut stones | — | 1915–1940 | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Not verified |
| emerald cut | — | 1920–today | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Not verified |
| Asscher cut | 1902 | 1902–today | Joseph Asscher, 1902 patent | Verified |
| princess cut | 1961 | 1980–today | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Verified |
| radiant cut | 1977 | 1980–today | Henry Grossbard, 1977 patent | Verified |
| cabochon | — | — | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Not verified |
| briolette | — | — | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Not verified |
Techniques
| Feature | Not before | Typical years | Source | Status |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| cannetille | — | 1820–1840 | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Not verified |
| hand repoussé | — | — | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Not verified |
| die stamping | — | 1830–today | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Not verified |
| filigree | — | — | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Not verified |
| die-struck white gold filigree | — | 1920–1940 | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Not verified |
| granulation | — | — | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Not verified |
| guilloché enamel | — | 1880–1935 | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Not verified |
| plique-à-jour enamel | — | 1890–1915 | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Verified |
| champlevé enamel | — | — | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Not verified |
| cloisonné enamel | — | — | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Not verified |
| black taille d’épargne enamel | — | 1840–1880 | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Verified |
| micromosaic | 1775 | 1800–1900 | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Verified |
| pietra dura | — | 1800–1900 | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Not verified |
| hairwork | — | 1780–1890 | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Not verified |
| silver-topped gold | — | 1750–1900 | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Not verified |
| cut steel | — | 1770–1900 | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Not verified |
| Berlin iron | 1790 | 1806–1860 | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Verified |
| marcasite | 1700 | 1700–1940 | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Verified |
| cameo | — | — | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Not verified |
| centrifugal lost-wax casting | — | 1935–today | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Not verified |
Materials
| Feature | Not before | Typical years | Source | Status |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| platinum | 1870 | 1900–today | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Verified |
| white gold | 1912 | 1917–today | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Verified |
| rhodium plating | — | 1935–today | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Not verified |
| aluminium | 1855 | 1855–1890 | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Verified |
| vulcanite | 1844 | 1850–1900 | Charles Goodyear, vulcanization patent (1844) | Verified |
| jet | — | 1850–1890 | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Verified |
| celluloid | 1869 | 1880–1940 | John W. Hyatt, celluloid patent (1869) | Verified |
| Bakelite | 1907 | 1920–1950 | Leo Baekeland, 1907 patent | Verified |
| Lucite (acrylic) | 1937 | 1940–1970 | Lang Antiques, Antique Jewelry University (langantiques.com/university) | Verified |
| Verneuil synthetic ruby | 1902 | 1905–today | Auguste Verneuil (1902) | Verified |
| synthetic sapphire | — | 1911–today | GIA, Gems & Gemology / gia.edu | Not verified |
| synthetic spinel | — | 1925–today | GIA, Gems & Gemology / gia.edu | Not verified |
| round cultured pearl | 1905 | 1921–today | GIA, Gems & Gemology / gia.edu | Verified |
| cubic zirconia | 1976 | 1977–today | GIA, Gems & Gemology / gia.edu | Verified |
| synthetic moissanite | 1997 | 1998–today | GIA, Gems & Gemology / gia.edu | Verified |
| tanzanite | 1967 | 1968–today | GIA, Gems & Gemology / gia.edu | Verified |
| aurora borealis rhinestones | 1955 | 1955–1975 | Swarovski y Christian Dior (1955) | Verified |
| demantoid garnet | 1850 | 1880–1915 | GIA, Gems & Gemology / gia.edu | Verified |
Style periods used
| Period | From | To |
|---|---|---|
| Georgian | 1714 | 1837 |
| Early Victorian (Romantic) | 1837 | 1860 |
| Mid-Victorian (Grand) | 1860 | 1885 |
| Late Victorian (Aesthetic) | 1885 | 1901 |
| Arts and Crafts | 1880 | 1920 |
| Art Nouveau | 1890 | 1915 |
| Edwardian (Belle Époque) | 1901 | 1915 |
| Art Deco | 1920 | 1939 |
| Retro | 1935 | 1950 |
| Mid-century | 1950 | 1970 |
| Modern | 1970 | today |
Frequently asked
How can I date a piece of jewelry from its construction?
Some features did not exist before a known date: a feature cannot be earlier than its invention. This table lists features, the date before which they are not expected, and the years they were typical. It gives a range, not a year.